Next, mount the LilliPCB on next to the fan
on the chassis LID (not the chassis itself).
Mount the PCB as shown ON THE END OF THE
LID CLOSEST TO J1 (THE SMALLER OF THE TWO
CONNECTOR OPENINGS. This is about the only
place the PCB will fit INSIDE the chassis
with the cover on. Use a #4 screw with flat
washer on top and bottom and a lock washer
to make sure it doesn't work loose with fan
or vehicle vibration.
Put the lid on the chassis and check to make
sure the PCB fits without hitting anything.
It should just clear your jumpers. NOTE:
SOME P1260s HAVE BEEN MANUFACTURED WITH LONG
JUMPERS WHICH MAY NEED TO BE TRIMMED SLIGHTLY
TO ALLOW THE PCB TO FIT PROPERLY WITHOUT
INTERFERENCE!
Next, remove the PCB from the chassis by
removing the 4 screws holding the PCB to
the chassis bottom, and CAREFULLY removing
the 2 screws holding the heatsink in place.
DO NOT REMOVE THE HEATSINK FROM THE SWITCHING
TRANSISTOR. It can be somewhat difficult
to put it back on, and it must remain electrically
isolated by the pink heatsink pad.
Now flip the board over and solder the INPUT
wires of the LilliPCB (the RED and BLACK
wires closest the the LM2596) to pins 3 &
4 of J1 (the input connector on P1260). The
RED wire goes to PIN 4 and the BLACK wire
goes to PIN 3 as shown below. It is best
to strip your wires approx .25 inches, tin
them with solder, then bend them 180 degress
in a semi-circle, then solder them around
the pins of J1. Make sure they don't short
to other pins or PCB traces!
